Electrical Cabinet

 I finished the new electrical cabinet yesterday and installed (temporarily) the door with paper cut outs of the controls.  The door has been salvaged from the old ice box that was torn out along with the entire starboard side bulkheads and engine compartment.

   Just in time as the primary switch/circuit breaker panel arrived.  I still need to refinish the door but the mock up lets me know it will all fit and clear.  It will be easier to access the wiring as the door swings open 90 degrees out of the way.  I am still playing around with the placements of each control and trying to leave room for future additions.

 My big question now is concern over the distance from the battery bank.  The main wires from the batteries to the switch will be 12 foot.  The batteries are close to the motor and the charging sources (alternator and solar panels).  The electrical panel is mid ships on the starboard side over what will become my navigation table.  Voltage drop can be accommodated but i wonder if there is something else I am missing.

Wood Work

This past weekend I reinserted the water tank in the under the forpeak birth.  I painted the lower half of the tank with 2 coats of the white epoxy paint.  My fill/pressure test of the tank showed a possibility of some moisture collecting around one of the lower welded seams.  It was not that much at all and I couldn't really determine if it was condensation or even dew from conducting the test outside.  So a couple coats of epoxy might be enough to extend the life of the stainless steel tank. A replacement tank (plastic) would be $300+ and a SS replacement would be $500+.  Since it will be used for washing water and flushing water only I am not too concerned.  Drinking water will be 3gal portable jugs for now. I have also decided that the best way to hold the tank down is a strap on the forward end with the rear end retained under a cleat.  Straps seem to be the popular method and are easy to replace.  I covered up the forpeak and placed the cushions on top.  Saturday night Lillian and I spent the night on the boat.  She thought it was great fun.  The forpeak is definitely her size.

I also made the cover for the chain locker.  A triangular piece of 3/8" ply set in teak cleats.  The cleats were made from blocking that was removed from the original ice box door.  There was a raised panel on the rear of the door that held an inch of insulation behind a fiberglass pan.  The cleats were the blocking for the pan.  I also saved the pan and will clean it up and use it for a serving tray (inverted) on the boat.  I need to varnish the cleats and paint the board.  Lillian has requested that one side be painted to be used as a marker board.  They have the paint available for that now.

I have also re-purposed the ice box door.  It will become the face of my new electrical controls cabinet.  I made a back panel out of the same 3/8 ply (to be painted) and fashioned the box that the door will mount to.  This will allow easy, hinged access to the wiring and again has saved a piece of the original construction.  The pictures show the door before demolition and mocked up with the panel.  I ordered the electrical switch/panel as the first piece.  I will order an illuminated navigation light switch, un-switched bilge pump controls and a 12v outlet (lighter socket) to round out the controls.  110v power and addition DC circuits will wait until we see what our usage is like.  Trying to keep it simple with battery charging accomplished with engine alternator and solar panels.  No need for 110v if we will be on a mooring.